Friday 13th September

Sir Blacas was on a crusade when he was captured by the Saracens. He prayed to the Virgin Mary for his safe return to his home and promised to hang a star above his village in tribute to her. That is why today there is a gold leaf star, 1.25 metres across, hanging from a 135-metre chain between two peaks above the hilltop village of Moustiers St Marie, probably the prettiest village we are likely to see on this trip.

After arriving from the Gorge du Verdon, we parked the vans in Camping St Jean at the foot of the village and caught the little train up to the top, well not quite the top, that’s for tomorrow. This evening, we are just soaking up the prettiness, the last of the sun and watching the vultures circling over the cliffs as we enjoy yet another cold beer.

Next morning (Saturday – please try and keep up!) we were up early to visit the market and to get right to the top of the village. Wendy and Lesley said it was a much better market than Carcassone’s, they had bought loads of fruit, cheese and sausage, and the breakfast was pretty good too.

The highest point of the village is the chapel of Notre Dame de Beauvoir, built in the 12th century in the notch between the two rocks that dominate the village. It is about 150 metres up a flight of stone steps cut into the hillside. Wendy wanted to rest her knee, so unselfishly volunteered to have a look around the ceramic workshops the village is famous for while we made the ascent. Its well worth the climb. We were standing directly under the star and had great views across the valley spread out below us. It was a sombre thought that in the 17th century parents came from all over Provence to have their still-born children baptised here, as they believed that the baby was momentarily resuscitated by the ceremony and so would be accepted into Heaven.

After stopping Bryn and Enzo hoovering the chamois poo we caught up with Wendy and together we took a path that led us on a sweeping walk through olive groves and with spectacular glimpses of the village back to the campsite.

As we were leaving it was clear that the early start was a good idea, as even on a nippy, windy morning in September the village carparks were filling up fast, and we felt we had had the best of the village to ourselves. So, there’s a top tip, get up and about early doors to avoid the crowds!